Auction houses may bring the promise of watches that withstand the
test of time, but for those who prefer their wrist candy new, there is
no shortage of options. From the classically inclined to mechanisms more
suited for NASA, here are ten of the world’s most expensive watches
prized for their craftsmanship and lineage.
1. Vacheron Constantin New Traditionnelle World Time
Thanks
to an incredible Calibre 2460 WT movement, the flagship of the
Excellence Platine collection, first introduced in 2011 and now
available in platinum, takes the Vacheron brand to the next level.
Two significant hallmarks to note: the new hand-engraved center dial
world map (with a shaded area on the map to reflect day or night) and a
dial that is the first to reflect the upcoming time zone change in
Moscow, effective October 26, which will change from being three to two
hours ahead of Geneva. This 42.5 mm timepiece has three patents: for the
indication of 37 time zones, for the day/night indication, and for
crown-operated adjustments. Made of 950 platinum, as are its dial and
folding clasp, it bears the sought after Geneva Seal.
Price: $98,500
2. Chopard L.U.C Tourbillon Qualité Fleurier Fairmined
As part of its commitment to sustainable and ethical luxury, Chopard, earlier
this spring, launched the world’s first timepiece whose caseback, case,
and bezel are made of Fairmined gold from South America. This elegant
43mm tourbillon with nine-day power reserve (placed over the 12 o’clock
numeral) features alternating satin-brushed and polished surfaces making
it the ultimate evening watch. Chopard’s grey dials are some of the
most striking in the market — and this one couples a subtle sunburst on
the ruthenium dial along with Roman numerals for a decidedly retro 1930s
aesthetic. Beyond the use of its patented Quattro technology boasting
four stacked and series-coupled barrels, what’s perhaps most striking
about the timepiece is the gorgeous bridge cage in which the tourbillon
is housed.
Price: $144,570
3. Montblanc Villeret 1858 ExoTourbillon Chronographe
One of five variations, this particular timepiece is
the first to unite two of watchmaking’s most admired horological
complications: the tourbillon and chronograph functions. Its
ExoTourbillon name comes from the tourbillon having a balance larger
than the cage — thus oscillating outside of said cage on a higher plane
and with greater precision.
This equates to 30 percent energy savings, which are then used to
power the chronograph’s functions. Aside from the hand-guilloched solid
gold dial, what also distinguishes this series of timepieces is the
hunter-style caseback reminiscent of vintage pocket watches. On the
actual mechanism, meanwhile, is engraved the word Minerva, a respectful
homage to the esteemed factory that now houses Montblanc’s Villeret
facility — the only manufacturer in the world to produce all its parts
(including balance springs) in-house.
Price: $264,500
4. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar
The Lange 1 is to A. Lange & Söhne what
the 911 is to Porsche: an icon of design that transcends time. One of
four timepieces first presented after the brand’s re-establishment in
1994, the classic Lange 1, with its asymmetric, overlap-free displays
and iconic outsize date, receives additional prominence with the
inclusion of perpetual calendar and tourbillon mechanisms.
To accommodate the new additions without sacrificing design, Lange
watchmakers moved the months to a chic peripheral ring. The "hidden"
tourbillon, meanwhile, is fully visible through the sapphire-crystal
caseback. While the platinum version was introduced at the 2013 SIHH,
it’s newly available in pink gold at A. Lange & Söhne’s Madison
Avenue boutique in Manhattan.
Price: $332,500
5. Hublot MP-05 LaFerrari
Where
to begin? From the horizontally-aligned tourbillon at the base to the
winding drill (yes, drill) that enables the wearer to wind the watch and
set the time, this feat of engineering, of which 50 were produced,
parallels the technological splendor of the flagship supercar for which
it was named. This LaFerrari boasts
a 50-day power reserve — a world record for a hand-wound tourbillon
wristwatch — achieved through 11 barrels, of which two alone are used to
indicate the hour and minutes.
With its see-through front and back, the barrels cascade down the
watch in a spine formation, entirely reminiscent of Ferrari’s
awe-inspiring engines housed under glass. The cylinders to the left
indicate the power reserve while those to the right tell the time.
Reinforcement bars — in red, naturally — are placed on either side as
support. In total, this timepiece houses 637 pieces — the most
components ever mastered by Hublot engineers.
Price: $345,000
6. Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30° Technique
Limited to 22 pieces, this timepiece is
arguably the ultimate of high-end niche watchmaking from a brand that’s
just 10 years old. For those willing to cough up high-six digits to
enter this very exclusive haute horlogerie club, this bi-color version
of the impenetrable original hits a home run.
An inner tourbillon positioned at a 30-degree angle that rotates once
every minute and an outer tourbillon that rotates once every four
minutes? It’s like wearing a mini super-factory on your wrist; every
single one of the 385 parts is beautifully synced with the next. The
47.5 mm platinum case boasts titanium sides and black chromium treatment
on the bridges and main plate. Mechanically speaking, this is the
Koenigsegg of watches.
Price: $620,000
7. Harry Winston Histoire de Tourbillon 5
Like a unicorn, you’ll be hard pressed to ever see one of these creations in your lifetime. One of the world’s most exotic timepieces —
and likely the last in the series given the brand’s acquisition by The
Swatch Group — the Histoire de Tourbillon lineup, started in 2009, was
simply a division that knew no creative bounds.
Its bulbous design (21.7mm) coupled with rose gold 47mm case makes it
a significant piece and a true showman’s watch. Inside the HW4303
movement, 381 parts equate to a 50-hour power reserve while
functionally, the hour and minutes are imaginatively noted on separate
discs. Don’t let the tourbillon fool you; ironically, at the heart of
this watch is a pretty straightforward mechanism for telling time.
8. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grand Complication
Based
off the iconic Royal Oak timepiece designed by Gérald Genta, the
hallmarks of this Grande Complication pack a mighty punch into a
universally wearable 44mm titanium case: perpetual calendar, minute
repeater, and split-seconds chronograph. AP has been making such
complications continuously since 1882 and this beauty showcases the
watchmaker’s first “sport” Grand Comp.
In total, 648 unique parts — including a ceramic bezel, crown and
pushers and 52 jewels — are combined to form this openworked masterpiece
(or roughly 860 man hours), of which only three were made. Audemars Piguet is
the king of coupling painstakingly produced mechanisms with the most
unexpected of case metals and dial styles. Fun fact: The moonphase
component is made with physical vapor deposition (PVD) metal deposited
onto sapphire.
Price: $742,900
9. Richard Mille RM 031 High Performance
As its name spells out, this watch is performance at its pinnacle. Pushed to the extreme, each of the ten timepieces produced
bears certification that ensures 61-days of non-stop testing. While
this level of precision and detail housed in the massive 50mm platinum
dial isn’t discernable to the naked eye, the two decade-old company is
now recognized for its groundbreaking achievements in watchmaking.
The round shape, a deviation from the classic tonneau, houses a
direct-impulse escapement developed by Audemars Piguet, basically
guaranteeing perfect performance. It also promises a chronometric
variation of just zero to 30 seconds a month (translation: high
performance over 30 days, not just 24 hours). It’s no wonder
connoisseurs obsessed with mechanical performance describe it as the F1
of watches.
Price: $1.05 million
10. Roger Dubuis Excalibur Quatuor Silicon
As a watch brand seemingly built on the motto of "love it or hate it," the 48mm Quatuor from Roger Dubuis represents
the highest level of innovation. A feat of design that truly boggles
the mind — the watch takes some 2,400 hours to build — the movement
incorporates four sprung balances, not tourbillons, which continuously
account for the effects of gravity and thereby increases the precision
of the movement.
Housed inside the silicon case, chosen for its low weight and
incomparable hardness, are four escapements, beautifully displayed at
diagonal angles in an Excalibur case, from which sound is emitted in
unison. Despite its complication of almost 600 parts, it simply shows
the time in an atmosphere that’s comparable to art or theater. Now
that’s rich.
Price: $1.1 million
Source: BusinessInsider
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